Nature Calling -- Part 213.
Jeff
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Yes, I know that’s what it seems like, but the end is finally here. Just a few more tidbits to clean up about the Galapagos Islands and I’ll be able to start writing about my solo summit of Everest without supplemental oxygen last Tuesday. :^T
The city of Quito has its share of people struggling on the bottom rungs of the economic ladder. Just as our bus was returning to the Marriott, a red light forced us to a stop. Immediately, the boys in this picture ran into the street right in front of us. One of them got down on all fours, and the other climbed up onto his back and began to juggle some pins for his captive audience. The light cycled green, the boys hopped back onto the median, and we drove off.
Later in the day, as our bus passed the same two kids, I leaned out of the large, open window and tossed a wrinkled up dollar bill in their direction in return for the earlier performance. One of them ran like a deer, scooped up the tip, and clenched it between the fingers of his right hand while smiling and waving. I stuck out the camera and quickly shot this grainy photo of my Ecuadoran street performer friends.
Obviously, we spent a good deal of time around Blue Footed Boobies, and got to see them dancing, resting, and feeding their young. But one noteworthy trait of these beautiful sea birds simply cannot go without mention: their plunge diving. 
Often seen fishing near shore, the blue foots circle in a flock about fifty to one hundred feet up, and when something in the water catches their interest, they accelerate into a nosedive, not merely falling, but powering themselves downward, closer to the surface until, at the very last second, wings are pulled in, feet are swooped back, and bill is aimed directly downward. They assume so drastic a streamlined figure that they appear to transform themselves into a narrow, piercing, spear. This photo shows one just about to enter the water. Off to the left is the slightest little splash from another bird that is already submerged, and at the top is yet a third boobie in the process of pulling in his wings for another perfect 10 dive. All of this happens in the blink of an eye, at breakneck speed, and when they do it in large numbers, it is a truly remarkable sight.
On our final full day, we spent some time walking “Tortoise Territory” in the fields of Rancho Mariposa, a private farm in the highlands of Santa Cruz Island on which giant Galapagos tortoises roam wild. In an agreement with the National Park Service, the farm owners are not developing the land, and make it available for small guided tours. In the acres of tall grass and trees were numerous giant tortoises slowly meandering from place to place.
Along the trail, Ivan “the Terrible” detoured us into a couple of enormous lava tunnels. He explained that when lava flows, the outer surfaces cool and harden first, and the inner molten lava continues to flow. Sometimes, the inner liquid empties out from the hardened exterior, and leaves behind a void, forming a tunnel. At one point, a portion of the tunnel roof had collapsed, forming somewhat of a sunroof. In recent years, a tree had taken root in the tunnel floor, and grown straight up through the hole.
It was inside one of these tunnels that I began to notice some strangely colored rocks, which, having never been inside a lava tunnel before, I assumed to be normal. But then I noticed various pieces of clothing on our fellow travelers also turning rather odd shades. On the spot, the trusty old glucose meter estimated my blood sugar at 32mg/dl, diving like a hungry boobie. With Nancy’s help, out came the juice and a few tablets, and I was soon safely back in Tortoise Territory.
So that’s the nickel tour of our trip to the Galapagos Islands. In review: Quitones, thin air, Pululagua Crater, Quito Cathedral, Jesuit Cathedral, Plaza de Independencia, Equator, worldwide waisteline, zero degree latitude, two pounds less, TAME Airlines, Baltra, weight restrictions, Espanola, Punta Suarez, North Seymour, naturalists, mesh bags, Humboldt Current, Zodiacs, snorkeling, Panama Current, lava lizards, Darwin Restaurant, Ivan “The Terrible,” Kicker Rock, Discovery Lounge, land iguanas, jumping dolphins, marine iguanas, fifteen foot swells, finches, mockingbirds, American Oystercatchers, masked boobies, Galapagos Flycatchers, blowhole, Sally Lightfoot Crabs, fur seals, Galapagos Hawks, sea lions, pups, Galapagos Doves, wet landings, dry landings, Bachas Beach, Santa Cruz, sea turtles, flamingos, eels, pig roast, Bartolome Island, lava tunnel, Buzz Aldrin, Pinnacle Rock, mangroves, penguins, 374 feet, Giovanna, Floreana, Cormorant Point, Post Office Bay, pintail ducks, stilts, Devil’s Crown, turtle tracks, pelicans, hammerheads, archipelago, Santiago Island, James Bay, Manuel, volcanic ash, feral goats, Judas goats, lens hood, Larry Bird, lava bridges, basaltic lava shore, noddy terns, lava cactus, Espinoza Point, Freddie, salt rockets, Flightless Cormorants, Fernandina, Dr. Kodak, Porta Aroya, Dragon Hill, “Esto es un robo,” Top Cat, giant tortoise, Lonesome George, Darwin Research Station, yellow warblers, street performers, plunge diving, and Rancho Mariposa.
Oh, and a sunset or two.
Aside from that, we didn’t do much. ;^)
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Reader Comments (6)
Great picture of the boys Jeff. Their spirit really outshines circumstance and you have to love that. :)
Thank you for sharing your incredible journey with us.
Thanks, Alison. I wish I had been able to get their picture juggling in front of the bus. They weren't Las Vegas quality talent, but like you say, their spirit carries them through every performance, and that goes a long way.
It's astounding to think of how much activity was packed into a week and a half. There's no way that I expected to write eleven lengthy episodes when we got back home, but that's what it took to cover everything. Thanks for reading and commenting.
I've enjoyed ALL of the episodes and your fantastic photos.
Hi Colleen. I'm glad you liked reading about the trip. It's nice to be able to share the many experiences with everyone. In the Galapagos, getting good photos is like shooting fish in a barrel. The wildlife is unafraid of humans and so, so plentiful, that visitors can easily shoot from mere footsteps' distance. It was almost TOO easy from a photographic perspective! Thanks for your nice comments.
Thanks for sharing your experience with us. As I looked at the pictures of the tortoises, they reminded me of buffalo. Weird, huh?
Donna -- Imagine singing the re-write:
"Oh, give me a home,
Where the Tortoises roam..."